Painting an RC Body: The Beginner's Guide (Lexan)
📅 Updated and expanded on November 13, 2025
The body is the face of your RC car, the showcase of your personality, the authentic reflection of your unique style. Whether you've accidentally broken your original body in a spectacular crash, or you simply want to create a totally unique look unlike any other, painting a clear polycarbonate body is the ultimate and most rewarding step in RC customization .
It might seem intimidating and technical at first, but it's actually a creative, accessible, and extremely rewarding process once you master the right techniques. This comprehensive guide will completely demystify painting on Lexan (polycarbonate). We'll methodically detail the 7 key professional steps , from meticulous preparation to the perfect finish, so you can achieve a result worthy of a professional body shop, even if it's your very first time. Transform your RC car into a rolling work of art!
🔬 1. Understanding Lexan and Polycarbonate Paint
Before we begin, it is crucial to understand what makes painting on Lexan so special and different from traditional painting.
🧪 What is Lexan (Polycarbonate)?
Lexan is the trade name for polycarbonate , an ultra-impact resistant thermoplastic. It has been THE standard material for RC car bodies for 40 years.
✅ Advantages
- Flexibility: Absorbs shocks without breaking
- Lightweight: 50-80g for 1/10 scale body
- Transparency: Perfect natural shine
- Resistance: 250 times greater than glass
⚠️ Constraints
- Scratch-prone: Scratches easily
- Specialty paint: Difficult adhesion
- Deforms when heated: >140°C
- UV sensitive: Yellows without protection
🎨 Why Special Polycarbonate Paint?
Here is the critical and non-negotiable difference:
| Paint Type | Membership | Flexibility | Results on Lexan |
|---|---|---|---|
| Standard paint (acrylic, enamel) |
❌ Bad (glides, doesn't catch) |
❌ Rigid (does not deform) |
🔴 CRACKS Falling apart |
| Polycarbonate paint (Tamiya PS, Spaz Stix) |
✅ Excellent (membership formula) |
✅ Flexible (deforms with plastic) |
🟢 PERFECT Shock resistant |
🔴 ABSOLUTE RULE: NEVER use standard paint (Tamiya TS, DIY spray paint, acrylic) on Lexan. It will crack and fall off at the first impact. ONLY use polycarbonate paint (Tamiya PS, Spaz Stix, Faskolor). Non-negotiable!
🔄 The Reverse Principle: Painting FROM THE INSIDE
This is THE fundamental characteristic of Lexan that confuses beginners:
📐 Traditional Technique (Metal/Hard Plastic Bodywork)
Paint → Exterior → Protective varnish coat on top
🔄 Lexan Technique (REVERSE)
Painting → INTERIOR → The Lexan itself acts as a glossy protective varnish
Result: Smooth, glossy and naturally protected exterior surface!
💡 Major advantage: The paintwork is protected from the inside. External impacts never directly affect the paint. Perfect shine guaranteed without additional varnish.
🛒 2. Essential Equipment (Complete List)
To achieve a professional-quality paint job, you absolutely need the right tools . Attempting to paint a car body with unsuitable equipment guarantees a disappointing and frustrating result.
📋 Complete Equipment List (by Priority)
| Material | Details & Specifications | Approximate Price | Priority |
|---|---|---|---|
| Transparent bodywork | Made of Lexan/Polycarbonate (0.5-1mm thick), compatible with your car's chassis. Supplied with exterior protective film and pre-cut window masks. | 25-60€ | 🔴🔴🔴 ABSOLUTE |
| Polycarbonate paint |
Tamiya PS (Polycarbonate Spray) 100ml , Spaz Stix, Faskolor, Pactra RC. ⚠️ NON-NEGOTIABLE: Standard paint = guaranteed cracking |
8-12€ /bomb |
🔴🔴🔴 ABSOLUTE |
| Lexan curved scissors | Special curved blades for cleanly cutting wheel arches without cracking the plastic. Straight scissors = cracks | 8-15€ | 🔴🔴🔴 ESSENTIAL |
| Bodywork reamer (Body Reamer) |
Special conical drill bit for drilling holes in bodywork supports without cracking. The conical shape flares the hole perfectly. | 5-10€ | 🔴🔴🔴 ESSENTIAL |
| Masking tape | Tamiya Masking Tape (low tack, leaves no residue) or equivalent model-making tape. Widths: 6mm, 10mm, 18mm depending on the design | 4-8€ /roll |
🔴🔴🔴 ESSENTIAL |
| Dishwashing liquid + sponge | For degreasing the interior of car bodies. Professional alternative: 99% isopropyl alcohol (rapid evaporation, zero residue) | 2-5€ | 🔴🔴🔴 ESSENTIAL |
| Latex/nitrile gloves | Hand protection + prevents greasy fingerprints on clean interior bodywork | 3-8€ /box |
🔴🔴 IMPORTANT |
| Protective mask | Solvent vapor filtering mask (FFP2/FFP3 or cartridge mask). Polycarbonate paint = powerful solvents | 5-25€ | 🔴🔴 HEALTH |
| Cutter/X-Acto | Sharp blade for cleanly cutting window masks, adjusting masking tape | 3-8€ | 🔴 USEFUL |
| "Backing" paint | Tamiya PS-5 Black or PS-1 White for final opaque base coat (makes colors vibrant, protects paint) | 10-12€ | ⭐ RECOMMENDED |
| MINIMUM TOTAL BUDGET (1st bodywork) | 70-120€ | - | |
🎨 Polycarbonate Paint Guide (Brands & References)
| Brand | Range | Price | Special Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tamiya |
PS (Polycarbonate Spray) 47 colors |
10-12€ /100ml |
Industry standard , maximum availability, 24-hour drying time, gasoline/nitro resistant |
| Spaz Stix | Full range + special effects |
12-15€ /3.5oz |
Intense, vibrant colours, brilliant metallic finish, quick drying (12h) |
| Faskolor | Parma Racing Professional range |
13-16€ /150ml |
Used in US competitions, excellent coverage, fluorescent/candy colors |
✅ Our recommendation: For beginners, Tamiya PS . Maximum availability, consistent quality, reasonable price, and extensive documentation. One can will cover 2-3 1/10 scale bodies with thin coats.
Perfect! Here is the **END of the LEXAN BODYWORK PAINT article**: ---
🎨 3. Professional 7-Step Painting
Follow this protocol methodically and you will achieve professional-quality results, even as a beginner. The key to success: never rush any step .
🧼 Step 1: Cleaning (CRUCIAL - Never Neglect)
This is the most important step in the entire procedure. A poorly cleaned bodywork = paint that won't adhere.
🔧 Professional cleaning procedure:
- Remove the inner protective film (often light blue). Keep the outer film (protective during painting).
- Wash the inside with warm water and degreasing dishwashing liquid.
- Use a soft sponge (not a scouring pad = scratches)
- Rinse thoroughly with clean, lukewarm water.
- Air dry completely (30-60 min) OR wipe with a clean microfiber cloth
- Professional finish: Wipe with a cloth dampened with 99% isopropyl alcohol (quick evaporation, zero greasy residue)
⚠️ ABSOLUTELY FORBIDDEN: Touching the inside with bare fingers after cleaning! Use latex/nitrile gloves for any subsequent handling. Even a single fingerprint will create an area where the paint won't adhere.
🎭 Step 2: Creative Masking
This is where your design comes to life. Patience and precision are your allies.
📐 Step-by-step masking technique:
- Window masks: Apply the pre-cut adhesive masks (included) to the inside. Remove air bubbles with a squeegee/credit card
-
Custom design: Create patterns with Tamiya masking tape
- Parallel strips: use a ruler and a cutter for straight lines.
- Geometric patterns: cut shapes from adhesive vinyl sheet
- Flames/organic patterns: lightly draw the outline with a pencil + cut out the ribbon
- Perfect adhesion: Press all edges of the tape firmly (no gaps = no smears)
💡 Pro tip: For complex curves, use 6mm tape (more flexible). For large straight surfaces, use 18mm tape (saves time). Layer several widths to create thicker strips.
🎨 Step 3: Painting (Thin Layers = Key to Success)
This is the decisive moment. Technique makes all the difference between amateur and professional results.
🔧 Professional spraying protocol:
⚙️ Bomb Preparation
- Shake vigorously for 2-3 minutes (the ball should rattle freely).
- Temperature tip: Immerse the spray can in lukewarm water (38-40°C) for 5-10 minutes → more fluid paint, smoother finish
- Test the spray on cardboard (first sprays will be uneven).
🎯 Technical Application
- Distance: 20-30 cm from the surface (not too close = drips, not too far = grainy effect)
- Movement: Regular parallel sweeps, arm moving FORWARD trigger press
-
Layers: 3-5 VERY THIN layers > 1 thick layer
- Layer 1: Light, transparent mist (plastic is still visible)
- Layer 2-3: Gradually build opacity
- Final layer: Light leveling
- Drying time between coats: 10-15 minutes minimum (touch dry)
| ❌ FATAL ERROR | ✅ GOOD PRACTICE |
|---|---|
| Apply 1 thick coat for "quick coverage" | 3-4 ultra-thin coats (patience rewarded) |
| Keep the can still while spraying. | Continuous sweeping motion (start off-room) |
| Painting too close (<15cm) = guaranteed drips | Constant distance 20-30cm |
🔴 GOLDEN RULE FOR COLORS: ALWAYS paint from DARK to LIGHT . Example: Red flames on a white background → 1) Red first 2) Remove flame masks 3) White next. The reverse = disaster (red shows through white).
⏱️ Step 4: Complete Drying (Patience Required)
Never rush this step. Poorly dried paint = guaranteed disaster when removing the masks.
| Paint Type | Drying Time | "Ready" Test |
|---|---|---|
| Tamiya PS | 24-48 hours | Interior feel: hard, non-sticky paint |
| Spaz Stix | 12-24h | Quick-drying, test in a discreet area |
| Between layers | 10-15 min | Dry touch (no finger transfer) |
💡 Ideal drying conditions: Temperature 18-25°C, humidity <60%, well-ventilated room (no direct drafts = dust). Suspend the bodywork or place it on supports (not flat = sticking).
⚫⚪ Step 5: The "Backing" - Opaque Background (Optional but Highly Recommended)
Once all your decorative colors are dry, apply a coat of opaque primer to the entire interior.
🎯 Why this is crucial:
- Maximum opacity: Makes colors more vibrant and opaque (especially light colors: yellow, orange)
- Mechanical protection: Sacrificial layer that absorbs internal scratches
- Evenness: Conceals minor imperfections and thin areas
- Professional finish: Clean and uniform interior appearance
| Color Backing | Recommended Use | Effect |
|---|---|---|
| ⚫ Black (PS-5) | Dark/metallic colors Aggressive racing design |
Depth, maximum contrast, "carbon" finish |
| ⚪ White (PS-1) | Light/fluorescent colors Colorful/vibrant design |
Maximum brightness, vibrant colors, "toy-like" finish |
| 🔵 Matching color | Monochrome design Ultra-professional finish |
Complete consistency between interior and exterior |
Application: 2-3 thin coats, same technique as for colors. Allow an additional 24 hours of drying time before handling.
✂️ Step 6: Removing the Masks (Magical Moment)
This is THE moment of truth , the revelation of your design. Proceed with care.
🔧 Professional withdrawal technique:
- Wait until completely dry (minimum 48 hours Tamiya PS)
- Peel off the window masks very slowly at a 45° angle (not 90° = paint will be torn off)
- If resistance persists: gently heat with a hairdryer (warm air, not hot).
- Remove the masking tape with a utility knife/X-Acto knife for clean edges.
- Make a small incision at the tape/paint joint
- Peel off the tape perpendicularly
- EXTERIOR protective film: Now we remove it → revealing a perfect glossy surface!
⚠️ Caution: If there is a small paint smudge on a transparent glass area → gently scrape it off with a new cutter blade (15-20° angle) or use a toothpick.
✂️ Step 7: Cutting and Drilling (Technical Finishing)
Now that the paint is dry and protected, proceed with the cutting and drilling.
🔧 Recommended order of operations:
-
Wheel arch cutouts:
- Follow the lines molded in the plastic
- Use Lexan curved scissors (curved blades conform to the shape)
- Cut into small, progressive sections (no large cuts = cracks)
- Test the chassis mounting regularly
-
Drilling holes for bodywork supports:
- Place the bodywork on the chassis, identify the locations
- Mark with a permanent marker
- Use a body reamer → perfect conical drilling
- Turn gently clockwise, applying light pressure
- Perfect hole = clips insert without forcing
- Edge finishing: Lightly sand the cut edges with 400 grit sandpaper (prevents cuts to hands).
✅ There you go! Your custom body is finished and ready to roll! Proudly mount it on your chassis and enjoy the admiring glances. 🎉
🎭 4. Advanced Techniques: Gradients, Effects, Patterns
Once you've mastered the basics, explore these pro techniques to create unique and impressive designs.
🌈 Technique 1: The Gradient
Principle: Smooth transition between 2 colors without abrupt demarcation.
Method :
- Apply color 1 (dark) to the lower half
- Wait 5 minutes for drying
- Apply color 2 (light) to the upper half
- Transition zone: Alternating short sprays of color 1 and 2, gradually increasing distance (30→40cm) for diffusion
- Result: Natural fusion of the 2 colors
✨ Technique 2: Metallic/Candy Effect
Principle: Extreme depth and gloss (high-end automotive paint effect).
Candy Method:
- Base: 2-3 coats of chrome/silver (Tamiya PS-12 Silver or equivalent)
- Let it dry for 2 hours
- Apply 2-3 very thin coats of transparent color (Tamiya TS Clear colors or equivalent candy color).
- Result: Incredible depth, reflections changing depending on the angle
💡 Pro Effect: Tamiya PS-52 Champagne Gold + PS-14 Copper = spectacular "sunset candy" type result.
🔥 Technique 3: Complex Patterns (Stencils)
Principle: To create shapes impossible with masking tape.
Stencil method:
- Cut out a design from repositionable adhesive vinyl (Oracal, Frisket film)
- Apply stencil to the inside of the bodywork
- Paint color
- Remove the stencil after drying.
- Popular motifs: Flames, tribal, sponsor logos, skull, checkerboard
💡 5. Pro Tips for a Perfect Result
- 🔥 Heat the spray can: Warm water (38-40°C) for 10 minutes = more fluid paint, ultra-smooth finish, less grainy
- ✂️ Paint BEFORE cutting: Easier to handle the entire body. Cut out wheel arches and drill holes AFTER the paint is dry
- 🧪 Test on a drop: Before the final project, test the technique on a Lexan drop or a sacrificial body.
- 🌡️ Room temperature: Ideal 20-25°C. <15°C = slow drying + thick paint. >30°C = drying too quickly + orange peel effect
- 💨 Ventilation: Paint in a well-ventilated room or outdoors (no direct drafts = dust will stick)
- ⏱️ Absolute patience: Each step takes time. Rushing will ruin all your work. 48 hours drying time is essential!
- 📸 Photograph the steps: If the design is complex, take a photo after each color for reference if you need to redo it.
⚠️ 6. Common Mistakes to Absolutely Avoid
| ❌ Fatal Error | 💥 Consequence | ✅ Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Use standard (non-polycarbonate) paint | Cracks, detachment at the first impact | PS/polycarbonate paint ONLY |
| Interior feel after cleaning | Fingerprints = areas without adhesion | Latex gloves are mandatory. |
| Single thick layer | Vertical drips, uneven drying | 3-5 thin, spaced-out layers |
| Remove masks too soon | Paint torn off, edges smudged | Wait 48 hours for complete drying |
| Paint light before dark | Dark color shows through, failed design | ALWAYS dark → light |
| Remove outer film before painting | Exterior scratches, stuck-on dust | Keep the film until the very end |
❓ 7. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
🎨 Can I use regular acrylic/spray paint on Lexan?
ABSOLUTELY NOT! This is the #1 mistake beginners make and is guaranteed to cause 100% failure.
Why it doesn't work:
- Lexan is a flexible plastic that deforms upon impact.
- Standard paint = rigid formula designed for inflexible surfaces
- Mathematical result: Paint cracks and peels off at the first impact (often right from the bodywork assembly!).
- No chemical adhesion to polycarbonate
🔴 ABSOLUTE REQUIREMENT: Use ONLY polycarbonate-formulated paint: Tamiya PS, Spaz Stix, Faskolor, Pactra RC. Cost €10-12/can, but this is non-negotiable . Saving money here will cost you €30-50 more for bodywork plus labor.
😱 I made a painting mistake, how can I correct/fix it?
Bad news: Correcting Lexan paint is extremely difficult or even impossible depending on the error.
| Type Error | Possible Solutions |
|---|---|
| Small paint smudge on the window | ✅ Gently scrape with a new cutter blade (15° angle) |
| Spill/major local error | ⚠️ Polycarbonate remover (Tamiya Paint Remover) + cotton swab. Risk of damaging plastic |
| Completely botched design | ❌ Almost impossible to remove without damaging. Creative solutions: 1) Integrate "error" into the design (add covering patterns) 2) Vinyl sticker on top 3) Start again with a new body (lesson learned!) |
💡 Pro philosophy: Mistakes are part of learning. First bodywork = rarely perfect. Consider it an investment in training. The second will be 10 times better! Keep the "failure" for future technical tests.
🖌️ Can you paint with a brush or airbrush instead of a spray can?
YES for airbrush (advanced level), NO for brush.
🎨 Paintbrush
- ❌ Strongly not recommended for large areas
- Visible brushstrokes = amateur finish
- Polycarbonate paint dries too quickly = marks
- ✅ OK only for minor details/touch-ups (logos, borders)
✈️ Airbrush
- ✅ Excellent choice for expert level
- Precise control, perfect gradients, paint savings
- Requires: Airbrush (€80-200) + compressor (€100-300) + liquid polycarbonate paint (Createx Wicked, Com-Art)
- Dilute 30-50% with polycarbonate thinner
- Learning curve: 5-10 bodywork projects to master
✅ Beginner recommendation: Start with spray paint (Tamiya PS). Maximum ease, guaranteed professional results if technique is followed. Switch to airbrushing once the basics are mastered (10-15 car bodies).
⏱️ How long does it take to paint a car body (beginner)?
Full real-time (simple 2-3 color design):
| Stage | Active Time | Drying Time |
|---|---|---|
| Cleaning + drying | 15 min | 1 hour |
| Masking design | 30-60 min | - |
| Paint in various colors (3-4 coats) | 20-30 min | 48 hours |
| Backing (opaque background) | 10 min | 24h |
| Mask disassembly + cutting | 30-45 min | - |
| TOTAL | 2-3 hours active | 3-4 days drying |
⏰ Realistic planning for beginners:
- Day 1 (evening): Cleaning + masking (1.5 hours)
- Day 2 (evening): Colour painting (30 min)
- Day 4 (evening): Backing (15 min)
- Day 6 (weekend): Disassembly + cutting + assembly (1 hour)
💡 Tip: Don't start the day before a release! Plan 5-7 days in advance for complete, stress-free drying. Complex designs (5+ colors) = double the active time.
🎉 Conclusion: Your Unique Rolling Artwork
Painting your own bodywork is undoubtedly one of the most personal, creative, and rewarding experiences in RC modeling. It's much more than a simple technical act: it's the extraordinary opportunity to create a machine that looks absolutely like no other, that bears your unique visual signature, and that tells your story.
Every painted car body is a learning experience. The first one will be imperfect (that's guaranteed!), but each subsequent project will bring you closer to complete mastery. Mistakes aren't failures; they're valuable lessons that will forge your expertise.
This skill is particularly essential in visual disciplines like RC Drift where aesthetics are an integral part of the show, but it is also the best way to radically improve the look of your car after an unfortunate crash or simply to refresh its appearance.
Your RC car is no longer a standard, mass-produced machine. It's now YOUR unique creation. Ride with pride! 🎨🚗
📚 Additional Resources to Go Further
To perfect your craft and explore other aspects of RC customization:
- 🎨 RC Drift Guide : A discipline where body aesthetics are paramount
- 🔧 Upgrade Guide : Visual and Performance Improvements
- 🛠️ Repair guide : Repairing cracked bodywork before repainting
- 🎯 2025 Buyer's Guide : Choosing a model with a beautiful, customizable body
🎨 Ready to Unleash Your Creativity and Create the Unique?
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