Building an RC Jump: The Easy DIY Construction Guide
📅 Updated and expanded on November 13, 2025
Your RC car is fast, powerful, and it literally devours any terrain you throw at it. It's high time you introduced it to a spectacular new dimension: the air! Building your own ramp is one of the most fun, creative, and rewarding aspects of the RC hobby. It's the absolute promise of memorable "bashing" sessions, impressive aerial maneuvers, and spectacular photos to proudly share.
No need to be an expert carpenter or have a professional workshop. This comprehensive and detailed guide shows you, step by step with diagrams and pro tips, how to build a simple, sturdy, safe kicker ramp, perfectly suited for getting started in the exhilarating world of RC jumps. Get out your tools and your creativity, we're going to add a good dose of adrenaline and excitement to your RC outings!
🎯 1. Types of RC Jumps: Choosing the Right Design
Before building, it is crucial to understand the different types of ramps and their effects on your car's trajectory. Each design has a specific purpose.
📊 Comparison of the 4 Main Types of Ski Jumps
| Springboard type | Typical Angle | Path | Recommended Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kicker (Recommended for beginners) |
25-35° | Progressive curve, upward propulsion + balanced length | Versatile, spectacular jumps, predictable landing |
| Table Top | 20-25° | Ascent + flat plateau + descent, long jumps | Very safe landing, aerial maneuvers, photography |
| Double (Advance) |
25-30° | Two ramps spaced apart, landing on the second ramp | Competition, high speed required, technique |
| Step-Up/Down | Variable | Change of level (sudden ascent or descent) | Create elevation changes, technical courses, less spectacular |
✅ Our Recommendation: To start, build a simple kicker . It's the most versatile design, the easiest to build, and offers the best balance of entertainment and safety. We explain this in detail in this guide.
📐 2. The Detailed Plan: The "Kicker" Ramp - Ideal for Beginners
Here are the precise specifications of a "kicker" ramp optimized for 1/10 and 1/8 scale RC cars. These dimensions have been tested and approved by thousands of RC drivers.
📏 Recommended Dimensions per Scale
| Dimension | 1/10 Buggy/Truggy | 1/10 Monster Truck | 1/8 Buggy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Maximum height | 40-45 cm | 45-50 cm | 50-60 cm |
| Ramp length | 100-110 cm | 110-120 cm | 120-140 cm |
| Width | 50-60 cm | 60-70 cm | 70-80 cm |
| Ramp angle | 25-35° (adjustable according to curve) | ||
🎯 Understanding the Impact of the Angle
📐 Gentle Angle (20-25°)
- Trajectory: Long, low
- Advantage: Long jumps, easy landing
- Suitable for: Beginners, moderate speed
📐 Medium Angle (25-30°)
- Trajectory: Balanced
- Advantage: Versatile, spectacular
- For: General use recommended
📐 Aggressive Angle (30-35°)
- Trajectory: High, vertical
- Advantage: Impressive jumps, tricks
- For: Experienced drivers, Monster Trucks
💡 Pro Tip: Start with a 28-30° angle (gentle curve). You can always increase the angle later by adding a wedge under the front of the jump.
🛒 3. Necessary Materials and Tools (Complete List)
No need for a professional workshop or expert carpentry skills. This project can be completed with simple and readily available materials found in any DIY store.
🪵 Shopping List (Wood Materials)
| Material | Dimensions | Quantity | Approximate Price | Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thick plywood | 120×60 cm Thickness: 15mm |
1 panel | 15-20€ | Sides of the ski jump (structure) |
| Thin plywood | 120×60 cm Thickness: 5-9mm |
1 panel | 10-15€ | Running surface (flexible ramp) |
| Wooden blocks | 30×40mm section Length 2m |
2 cleats | 4-6€ | Internal reinforcements (skeleton) |
| Wood screws | 40mm and 25mm | Box of 100 pcs | 5-8€ | Structural assembly |
| Sandpaper | 80-120 Grit | 2-3 sheets | 3-5€ | Edge finishing (safety) |
| TOTAL MATERIALS BUDGET | 40-55€ | - | ||
🔧 The Essential Toolkit
✅ Essential
- Pencil + Tape measure
- Jigsaw (curves)
- Electric screwdriver
- Sandpaper
💡 Recommended
- Set square (right angles)
- Clamps (for support)
- Spirit level
- Protective glasses
🎨 Optional (finishes)
- Exterior wood paint (protection)
- Varnish (waterproofing)
- Adhesive carpet (grip)
💰 Total Project Budget: €40-55 for materials + tools (if purchased) €50-100 = €90-155 for a durable ramp that will last for years. Payback period: 3-4 sessions compared to RC track rental!
🔨 4. Construction, Step by Step (Photographic Guide)
Follow this methodical guide! The key to success lies in a careful initial cut that will serve as a template for everything else.
📋 Construction in 8 Detailed Steps
🔨 Step 1: Draw the Sides (Ramp Profile)
On your 15mm plywood panel, draw the side profile of your ramp.
Recommended technique:
- Draw a rectangle 120cm (length) × desired height (45cm)
- From the top right corner, draw a gentle curve that descends towards the bottom left corner.
- Use a flexible object (flexible pipe, flexible ruler) to create a smooth curve
- The exit angle (apex) should be approximately 28-32°
💡 Tip: Imagine a right triangle where you round off the hypotenuse to create a gradual curve. Avoid sharp angles that could damage the car.
✂️ Step 2: Cut the First Side
Using the jigsaw, carefully follow your outline. This piece is crucial as it will serve as a template.
- Set the jigsaw speed to medium
- Follow the line as closely as possible (stay just outside it)
- Don't force it, let the saw do the work.
- Once cut, sand the edges with 80 grit sandpaper
⚠️ Safety: Wear safety glasses. Secure the sign firmly (clamps or with the help of another person).
📐 Step 3: Duplicate the Side (Template)
Use the first cut piece as a template to trace the second one onto the same panel.
- Place the first piece on the remaining part of the panel
- Trace the outline with a pencil (follow it perfectly).
- Cut out the second piece with a jigsaw.
- Also sand the edges
✅ Verification: Overlap the two sides. They must be perfectly identical (tolerance ±2mm maximum).
📏 Step 4: Create Internal Reinforcements
Cut your battens to the exact width of your ramp (60cm in this example).
- Number of reinforcements needed: 5-6 cleats minimum
- Distribution: 1 at the bottom, 1 at the top, 3-4 evenly spaced along the curve
- Cut cleanly with a saw (a manual one is OK)
🔩 Step 5: Assemble the Skeleton
Screw the battens between the two sides to form the supporting structure.
Assembly procedure:
- Place one side flat on the ground
- Position the cleats perpendicularly
- Screw each batten in place (2 screws per end = 4 screws/batten)
- Use 40mm screws for a good grip
- Position the second side and screw on the other end.
- Straighten the structure: it must be able to stand on its own.
💡 Pro tip: Pre-drill the holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Use a 3mm drill bit.
🌊 Step 6: Prepare the Rolling Surface
The thin plywood panel (5-9mm) must conform to the curve. Flexing technique:
- Lightly dampen the inner surface (concave side) with a damp sponge.
- Let it rest for 10-15 minutes
- The wood becomes more flexible and pliable.
- Test its flexibility: it should bend without cracking.
⚠️ Important: Do not over-wet (risk of deformation). Just enough to make it flexible.
🔩 Step 7: Secure the Rolling Surface
This is the final assembly stage. Installation technique:
- Position the panel on the frame, wet side against the battens
- Start from the bottom (flat part): screw in 3-4 screws
- Gradually push the panel upwards
- Screw onto each cleat, going up the curve.
- Use 25mm screws (going through 9mm panel + biting into battens)
- Space the screws every 8-10 cm on each batten.
✅ Result: The panel naturally conforms to the curve. If there is resistance, lightly dampen it again.
✨ Step 8: Finishing and Protection
- Sand all edges and corners (120 grit) to prevent splinters.
- Check for sturdiness: no screws should protrude
- Exterior protection: 2 coats of exterior wood paint or varnish (if used permanently outdoors)
- Grip option: Stick adhesive carpet strip onto the surface (better tire grip)
🎉 Congratulations! Your springboard is finished. Allow 24 hours of drying time before first use if painted/varnished.
🏁 5. Tips for Your First Jumps (and Landings!)
Building the ramp is one thing, but using it correctly and mastering the jumping technique is another, equally important thing. Here are the secrets of experienced riders.
🎯 Preparing the Jump Zone (Maximum Safety)
📏 Run-up Zone (BEFORE the Jump)
- Minimum distance: 5-8 meters of clear straight line
- Surface: Flat, without obstacles (stones, branches)
- Adhesion: Good (short grass, compacted soil, asphalt)
- Purpose: To allow reaching a stable speed before ramping
🛬 Landing Zone (AFTER the Jump)
- Minimum distance: 10-15 meters in a completely clear area
- Ideal surface: Long grass (5-10cm) = best natural shock absorber
- Avoid: Concrete, gravel, areas with obstacles
- Gentle downward slope: Facilitates landing if possible
⚠️ Safety: Clearly mark the area. No one should cross during jumps (risk of collision).
🎮 Piloting Technique: The 5 Steps to the Perfect Jump
1️⃣ The Approach: Speed and Trajectory
- Always approach the ski jump in a straight line (not at an angle).
- Wheels perfectly straight (no steering)
- Maintain a constant speed for the last 2 meters (no more accelerating/braking).
- First attempt: moderate speed 50-60% (assess jump distance)
2️⃣ Takeoff: Maintaining Balance
- At the moment of takeoff: Release the trigger completely (neither throttle nor brake)
- Let the car "feel" the ramp naturally
- Keep the wheels straight until you are completely airborne
3️⃣ The Flight: Airborne Control (CRUCIAL)
This is THE essential technique for landing on four wheels:
| Problem in Flight | Action to Take | Effect |
|---|---|---|
| Nose too high (rear-headed) | Slight application of the brake | Makes your nose dip downwards |
| Nose too low (pricked) | Slight tap of the accelerator | Makes you lift your nose |
| Lateral rotation (twist) | Turn in the OPPOSITE direction | Counter-rotation (advanced) |
💡 Pro secret: Short reaction times (0.2-0.5 sec). No need for full throttle/brake. A quick tap is more than enough.
4️⃣ The Landing: Absorbing the Impact
- Objective: To land slightly on the rear (rear wheels touch down 0.1 seconds before the front wheels)
- Ideal position: car almost horizontal, nose very slightly raised
- At the moment of impact: Release the accelerator/brake, let the suspension work.
- Avoid accelerating abruptly immediately after contact (risk of rollover).
5️⃣ After Landing: Regaining Control
- Allow the car to stabilize for 1-2 seconds
- Correct direction if necessary (gently)
- Gradually accelerate again once you've stabilized.
- Visual inspection: Check that nothing is trailing/hanging (every 3-4 jumps)
🔧 Preventive Maintenance: Crucial Checks
Jumps are extremely demanding on the mechanics. Inspect regularly:
| Part to Check | Frequency | Checkpoints |
|---|---|---|
| Suspensions | After each session | Oil leaks, excessive play, rod deformation |
| Suspension triangles | Every 3-4 jumps | Plastic cracks, clean break (fragile part #1) |
| Cardan shafts/hexagons | Weekly | Play, pin wear, sufficient lubrication |
| chassis screws | Before each session | Tightening (vibrations loosen everything) |
📖 For complete maintenance after jump sessions: Consult our RC maintenance guide which details suspension disassembly and maintenance.
⚠️ Expect Breakage (It's Normal!)
Repeated jumping is the most destructive RC activity for the mechanics . It's unavoidable.
- Parts that often break: Suspension wishbones, drive shafts, wheel hubs, bumpers
- This is planned: These parts are sacrificial (they break to protect the rest)
- Parts budget: Expect to spend €20-40/year on parts if you use them regularly.
- Repair: Simple and quick (usually 10-30 minutes)
🔧 Keep our repair guide handy and build up a small stock of common spare parts (triangles, pins, screws). Available in our spare parts shop .
⚠️ 6. Ski Jump Safety and Maintenance
A well-maintained ski jump equals maximum safety and longevity. Here's how to preserve your structure.
🔍 Regular Inspection (Before Each Session)
- General stability: Shake the springboard; no play should be perceptible.
- Screws: Check that no screws have come loose (repeated vibrations)
- Running surface: No cracks, delamination or soft spots
- Sides: No slots in the plywood
- Cleanliness: Remove accumulated dirt/mud (unnecessary weight + slipperiness)
🛡️ Weatherproof
Wood is sensitive to moisture. Extend the life of your springboard:
- Ideal storage: Sheltered area (garage, shed) between uses
- If stored outdoors: Waterproof tarpaulin securely fastened (must not blow away)
- Wood treatment: Apply exterior varnish/stain once a year (UV protection + water).
- Raising the surface: Place on blocks to avoid direct contact with the damp ground
💡 Lifespan: With minimal maintenance, your diving board will easily last 3-5 years . Without protection: 1-2 years (wood rots).
❓ 7. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
🚗 Which car is best for spectacular jumps?
Top 3 types of cars for jumps:
- 1/10 Monster Trucks: Long suspension travel, huge wheels, absorbs everything. Very stable landings. Ideal for beginners.
- 1/8 scale truggies: The perfect compromise between stability and agility. Long chassis = stability in flight. The best all-around choice.
- 1/10 and 1/8 scale buggies: Light and agile, easy aerial maneuvers. But landings are more technical (tight car).
🎯 Our recommendation: To start off-roading, choose a Monster Truck or Truggy . Discover the best models in our 4x4 off-road guide .
⚠️ Avoid for jumps: Road/touring cars (short suspension), Short Course low (low center of gravity = rolls), Crawlers (too heavy, slow).
🛠️ Can I use materials other than wood for construction?
Yes! Here are the alternatives to wood with their advantages/disadvantages:
| Material | Benefits | Disadvantages |
|---|---|---|
| Reinforced thick cardboard | Free/inexpensive, easy to form curves, lightweight | Very fragile, unusable in the rain, lasts 1-2 weeks max |
| PVC/polypropylene plastic | Rot-proof, water-resistant, lightweight, easy to shape | Expensive (€50-80 panel), variable flexibility, less stable |
| Metal (welded aluminum/steel) | Extreme durability (10-20 years), ultra-stable, pro | Very expensive (€150-300), requires welding, heavy (20-40kg) |
| compacted soil/sand | Free, integrated landscape, easily editable | Rain destroys everything, constant maintenance, limited angle |
✅ Our opinion: For beginners, wood remains the best compromise between ease of use, price, and durability. Cardboard is OK for testing the concept. Metal is an investment for clubs or intensive, continuous use.
📏 Can I adapt the dimensions for 1/16 or 1/5 scale cars?
Absolutely! Here are the dimensions adapted to each scale:
| Ladder | Height | Length | Width |
|---|---|---|---|
|
1/18 - 1/16 (Mini) |
20-30 cm | 50-70 cm | 30-40 cm |
|
1/10 - 1/8 (Standard) |
40-60 cm | 100-140 cm | 50-80 cm |
|
1/5 (Giant) |
70-90 cm | 180-220 cm | 90-120 cm |
💡 Simple rule: The height of the ramp should be approximately 2-3 times the height of your car (measured from the ground to the roof). Length ≈ 2-2.5 times the height for a gentle curve.
💰 How much does the complete construction cost (actual budget)?
Here is the complete actual budget based on your situation:
| Job | You have tools | Buy tools |
|---|---|---|
| Materials: wood + screws | 40-55€ | 40-55€ |
| Jigsaw (if purchased) | - | 30-60€ |
| Electric screwdriver (if purchased) | - | 30-80€ |
| Finishes (paint, varnish) | 15-25€ | 15-25€ |
| TOTAL | 55-80€ | 115-220€ |
📊 Profitability: RC track rental with obstacles = €15-25/session. Your ramp pays for itself in 3-5 sessions if you have your own equipment, 5-10 sessions otherwise. Then it 's free for life!
💡 Money-saving tip: Borrow a jigsaw from a friend/neighbor. Rental for 1 day at a DIY store: €15-20. Total investment reduced to €60-75.
🎉 Conclusion: It's your turn to play and fly!
Building your own ramp is an incredibly rewarding and memorable milestone in any RC modeler's life. It radically transforms your flying sessions, opens up endless play possibilities, and strengthens the emotional connection with your machine. Every successful jump, every mastered trick becomes a source of immense pride.
Don't be afraid to experiment with shapes, angles, and heights to gradually create the perfect jump spot that exactly matches your riding style and ambitions. Start small, test, adjust, and learn from every session.
The ramp is built. Now it's your turn to fly your RC! 🚁
To complete your experience and become self-sufficient, also consult our maintenance guide and our repair guide .
📚 Additional Resources to Go Further
To perfect your driving skills and choose the ideal car for jumps:
- 🚙 Off-road 4x4 Guide : Best Monster Trucks and Truggy for Jumps
- 🔧 Repair guide : Repairing a broken suspension arm or driveshaft after a crash
- 🧼 Maintenance guide : Suspension maintenance after intensive sessions
- 🎯 2025 Buyer's Guide : Choosing a rugged car suitable for bashing/jumping
🚗 Find the Ideal Machine for Spectacular Jumps
A good ramp deserves a car capable of making the most of it. Discover our carefully curated selection of ultra-robust Monster Trucks and Buggies, specially designed to absorb impacts and soar high.
Explore Off-Road Models →🏁 Lost in your Choice?
Our complete guide helps you find the perfect RC car according to your budget and skill level. No more doubts, make the right choice the first time.