Building Your Own RC Car: The Complete Guide (Kit vs. Parts)

1️⃣ The Chassis + Running Gear (Mechanical Skeleton)

This is the structural skeleton of the car, the fundamental base on which EVERYTHING else will be mounted. It defines the type of vehicle (Buggy, Monster Truck, Touring, Crawler...) and its scale (1/10, 1/8...).

Components included in "chassis + running gear":

• Main chassis: Central plate (aluminum, carbon fiber, reinforced plastic) with motor mounts, differentials, supports
• Differentials: Front/rear (2WD = 1 diff, 4WD = 2-3 diffs) with internal gears
• Driveshafts/Transmission: Transmission shafts (CVD, universal, hexagonal) that transmit engine power to the wheels
• Suspension triangles: Arms that connect the wheels to the chassis (front + rear)
• Steering knuckles: Wheel supports with shock absorber mounts
• Steering: Tie rods, steering arms, servo mount

💡 Scratch Build: Choose a chassis compatible with your desired scale (1/10 is the most common). Check wheelbase, track width, and standard mounting points. Reputable brands: Tamiya, Team Associated, Serpent, Yokomo.

2️⃣ The Motor + ESC Combo (Power Core)

This is the heart of your machine's propulsion system . For modern performance, the almost mandatory choice is a Brushless Motor (brushless) + its matching and compatible Electronic Controller (ESC) combo.

✅ Buying tip: Opt for pre-matched combos (motor + ESC sold together) = guaranteed compatibility + often cheaper. Reputable brands: Hobbywing, Castle Creations, Spektrum, Traxxas.

3️⃣ The Battery + Charger (Energy Reservoir)

It's the mobile energy reservoir . A Li-Po (Lithium-Polymer) battery is essential to power a modern brushless system with optimal performance.

Critical battery specifications:

• Configuration (S): 2S (7.4V) = standard leisure | 3S (11.1V) = high performance | 4S (14.8V) = racing (check ESC compatibility!)
• Capacity (mAh): 3000-5000 mAh typical 1/10 → more = long battery life but heavy weight
• Discharge rate (C): Minimum 25C (50C+ recommended for racing)
• Connector: Deans/T-Plug (standard), XT60 (robust), EC3/EC5, Traxxas (check ESC compatibility)

LiPo charger:

• A balancer charger is mandatory (balances each cell individually) = safety + longevity
• Minimum budget: 40-60€ (SkyRC, ISDT, Venom)
• Essential functions: Charge/discharge/storage, cell voltage display

⚠️ LI-PO SAFETY: Li-Po batteries are powerful but dangerous if misused. Never overcharge, store partially charged (3.8V/cell), and use a fireproof bag. Consult our complete Li-Po guide .

4️⃣ The Radio System (Pilot-Machine Control Link)

It consists of the remote control (transmitter) that you hold, and the miniature receiver installed in the car. This is your two-way control link with the machine.

Radio selection criteria:

• Number of channels: Minimum 2CH (throttle + steering). 3CH+ = advanced functions (diff lock, dual rate...)
• Protocol: Check transmitter/receiver compatibility (usually same brand). Standards: FHSS, AFHDS, DSM2/DSMX
• Range: 100-300m standard, more than sufficient
• Transmitter type: Pistol grip (standard for cars) or stick (airplane/drone, less ergonomic for cars)

💰 Radio budget: Decent entry-level: €50-80 (FlySky, Dumbo RC). Excellent mid-range: €120-200 (Spektrum DX5C, Sanwa, Futaba). Pro racing: €300-600+.

5️⃣ The Steering Servo (Steering Muscles)

It is the small but powerful motor that physically drives the steering of the wheels. Its speed (reaction time) and torque (force) are crucial for precise and responsive steering.

💰 Budget: Fair: €25-40 | Excellent: 50-80€ | Professional: 100-150€+. Brands: Savöx, Power HD, KO Propo, Futaba.

6️⃣ Wheels and Tires (Single Point of Ground Contact)

The only point of physical contact with the ground. Tire choice depends entirely on the main terrain of driving.

• Rims: Plastic (light, fragile) or Aluminum/Beadlock (heavy, robust, pressure adjustable)
• Tires:
  • Earth/Grass: High, widely spaced crampons
  • Bitumen/Asphalt: Smooth slicks or road profile
  • Indoor track: High-density foam tires
  • Drift: Hard PVC plastic (zero intentional grip)
• Foam inserts: Inside the tire, defines the hardness (soft/medium/hard)

7️⃣ Bodywork + Accessories (Final Aesthetic Touch)

This is the visual signature of your creation. It is usually sold transparent (Lexan/polycarbonate), ready to be painted and cut by the user.

• Lexan bodywork: Transparent, flexible, impact-resistant. Interior paint (natural protection). Consult our bodywork paint guide .
• Body mounts: Fixing clips (usually included with the chassis)
• Accessories: Spoiler, mirrors, LED headlights, scale pilot...

🔩 Step 1: Preparation & Inventory (30-60 min)

• Open the kit box, take out ALL the bags and pieces
• Complete inventory: Check parts list and instructions (tick one by one)
• Organize parts into groups (screws, bearings, triangles, etc.) in bins/trays
• Read the instructions ENTIRELY before starting (crucial overview)
• Prepare a clean, well-lit, stable workspace

⚠️ Missing part? Contact manufacturer's customer service IMMEDIATELY before starting. Provide photo proof and kit reference.

⚙️ Step 2: Differential Assembly (1-2 hours)

The differentials allow the wheels to rotate at different speeds (cornering). This is the most delicate and precise section of the assembly.

• Differential housing assembly + satellite/planetary gears
• Apply plenty of grease BEFORE closing the crankcase (thick Teflon grease)
• Tighten the crankcase screws: progressively crosswise (do not tighten fully all at once = deformation).
• Free rotation test: should rotate smoothly without any stiff spots

💡 Pro tip: Work on a white/light-colored base. Tiny gears = easily lost if dropped.

🏗️ Step 3: Main Chassis Assembly (30-60 min)

• Differential mounting on chassis (front/rear supports)
• Install motor bracket + motor pinion (check correct gearing with differential ring gear)
• Gear-crown mesh: Slide a piece of paper between the teeth = perfect mesh (neither too tight nor too loose)
• Battery support assembly, electronic boards

🔗 Step 4: Assembling the Suspensions (1-1.5 hours)

Suspension triangles connect the wheels to the chassis with joints allowing vertical movement.

• Front/rear wishbone assembly with ball joints or bearings
• Installation of wheel carriers (wheel supports) on wishbones
• Cardan shafts/Transmission: Mounting of transmission shafts (CVD preferred = less maintenance)
• Free travel check: suspension must move smoothly without binding

🌊 Step 5: Shock Absorber Preparation & Installation (1.5-2 hours)

This is the most time-consuming but crucial step for car behavior.

Shock absorber installation procedure:

1. Shock absorber body assembly + piston rod
2. Silicone oil filling:
   • Recommended viscosity (generally 400-500 Wt starting)
   • Fill body 90% → Pump stem slowly 10-15 times (purge air bubbles)
   • Top up if needed → Screw on shock absorber head
3. Spring installation (hardness according to instructions)
4. Mounting shock absorbers to chassis + wishbones (screws + ball joints)
5. Leak test: Compress the shock absorber → it should resist without leaking

⚠️ Fatal error: Air bubble in the shock absorber = chaotic behavior. Take the time to bleed the system properly!

🎮 Step 6: Steering System (30-45 min)

• Steering triangle assembly (connects left and right steering knuckles)
• Installation of servo steering linkage (arm fixed to servo)
• Steering linkage connection (servo control arm → steering triangles)
• Neutral setting: Wheels perfectly straight when radio centered
• Steering travel test: the steering wheel should turn from lock to lock without forcing.

⚡ Step 7: Electronic Installation (1-1.5 hours)

Critical phase requiring rigor and cleanliness .

Installation sequence:

1. Engine :
   • Mounting on engine bracket (screws + washers if supplied)
   • Connecting motor wires to ESC (respect polarity and phase order if brushless sensored)
2. ESC (Controller):
   • Mounting to chassis (double-sided Velcro or screws depending on the model)
   • Battery connection (check polarity +/- ABSOLUTELY!)
   • Receiver connection (3-wire signal cable)
3. Steering servo:
   • Servo mount attachment to chassis
   • Receiver connection
4. Receiver:
   • Central chassis position fixing (protective foam)
   • Antenna: deployed vertically (not rolled up = signal loss)
5. ON/OFF switch: Easily accessible without removing the bodywork

🔴 SAFETY: Battery disconnected during ALL wiring! Battery connection = LAST operation before testing.

🛞 Step 8: Wheel & Tire Mounting (20-30 min)

• Adhesive for mounting tires on rims (if not pre-mounted): thin cyanoacrylate glue
• Installation of foam inserts inside the tire (if supplied)
• Wheel mounting on universal joints (self-locking nuts + blue threadlocker)
• Progressive cross-tightening (do not tighten fully all at once)

🎨 Step 9: Bodywork Preparation (2-4 hours depending on paint)

• Cutting: Wheel arches with Lexan curved scissors
• Drilling: Mounting holes with a bodywork reamer
• Interior painting: Consult our complete guide to bodywork painting
• Sticker/decal installation
• Bodywork mounting clips on chassis

✅ Step 10: Initial Testing & Adjustments (1-2 hours)

Pre-ride checklist:

1. Radio binding: Pairing transmitter and receiver (procedure in radio manual)
2. Steering test: Turn the steering wheel → the wheels turn in the correct direction.
3. Throttle/brake test: Forward trigger → forward | Rear trigger → brake/reverse
4. ESC calibration: Follow the procedure in the ESC manual (neutral + full throttle + full brake)
5. First slow run: 5-10 min at moderate speed (mechanical break-in)
   • Listen for abnormal noises
   • Check temperatures (engine, ESC warm OK, burning hot = problem)
   • Check that no screws are loose
6. Fine adjustments: Steering neutral, servo travel, transmitter trim

🎉 Congratulations! Your car is built and ready to drive. Start slowly, learn how the car behaves, then gradually increase power/speed.